Introducing...Shaggy Raggy Quilt Pattern

Need a simple and easy quilt project? Try a Shaggy Raggy Quilt! This is a perfect project for any child learning to sew or any adult brand new to the world of quilting. Create this fun quilt from just 6-7 fabrics such as flannel or cotton!

Cut the blocks, stitch them together, clip the seams, throw it in the wash and watch shaggy raggy edges spring up in your quilt! Use easy-to-sew fabrics that will ravel such as flannel, cotton or denim. Cut fabric sandwich blocks, stitch the blocks into rows and sew the rows together to create a finished quilt!

Two sizes included in pattern; crib - 36" x 42" & lap - 54" x 66"

Sewing level - Beginner

Note from Serena: I have taught the Shaggy Raggy Quilt as a class multiple times and after requests for a pattern, it is now available! With my detailed instructions and clear illustrations you will be able to create your fun quilt! I am so excited to have this first pattern published and hope you will enjoy creating your own Shaggy Raggy Quilt!

I am so excited about this fun pattern that I am offering it to you at a special price for a limited time! This pattern retails for $5.99, but as a special introductory offer, it will be on sale for $3.99 through September 15th!

Create Your Own Plastic Templates

Quilting rulers are great for cutting quilt pieces, blocks and borders. From itty, bitty, tiny quilt triangles to long, wide borders, quilt rulers are a must! Throw in a cutting mat and rotary cutter and you are all set to go. It is so quick and easy to set your ruler down on the correct measurement, run your rotary cutter up against it and your fabric is cut. So much quicker than marking it and cutting with a pair of scissors!


Rules are available in all shapes and sizes for cutting all kinds of fabric triangles, squares and borders. But there is not the exact size ruler for every single quilt piece or block in any size. Many times a ruler can be turned this way and that to make it cut the piece you need, but having the actual size you need to cut is very helpful.


That is when you need to create your own template. I love to use clear plastic template sheets and cut them to the exact size I need them to be. The sheets are semi-clear which allows you to see through to the fabric you are cutting. You can easily cut the template sheets with a pair of scissors into the shape you need. Plus you can also write on the plastic with an ink pen which allows you to mark lines and label each piece.


For the current quilt blocks I am working on, I needed a square ruler measuring 14 1/2" x 14 1/2" to cut my blocks down to size. Omnigrid, my favorite brand of quilting rulers, does not make a 14 1/2" square ruler. They make a 15 1/2" square, which I could use, but not a 14 1/2".


But I can make my own template that is the exact 14 1/2" I need using plastic template sheets! The template sheets are 14" x 20", but I can tape two sheets together for a larger size. Using my rotary cutter and cutting mat, I can then cut the template plastic down to 14 1/2". I will draw horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines on the template. This marks the center of the template and helps for placement when cutting down the blocks.


A rotary cutter will cut though the template, so I have to use it with a quilting ruler when I'm cutting the blocks. All I have to do is lay the template square on the block and center it where it I would like it. Pick up my quilting ruler, line it up against one side of the template and use my rotary cutter to cut off the excess fabric. The rotary cutter is cutting against the ruler, so it will not cut into the plastic. I can continue to cut the other three sides.


Yes, I could use the 15 1/2" square ruler and cut my blocks down to 14 1/2". But it is much easier to have an exact 14 1/2" square, center it over the block and trim off the excess fabric. Why? I am trying to keep the quilt design in the center of the block, still centered in the block after it is cut down to size. When I have the correct size placed on top the block, I can easily measure the distance from the embroidery center to the template edge.


If I am only needing to cut one block, I would just use the 15 1/2" square, but since I will be cutting multiple blocks, it is much easier and saves time to make a template and use that to cut down the blocks. When you are needing a different or unusual size that the ruler you have, try creating your own template using template plastic and see how it works for you! I have multiple sizes of blocks made from template plastic and use them over and over!

Creative Expressions Issue #16 by Jenny Haskins

Creative Expressions is a quarterly magazine and is a must for anyone who loves creativity, sewing, embroidery and quilting. This magazine captivates and inspires all who read it, with 84 pages full of luscious photography, easy-to-follow directions and inspirational ideas. Plus, there is a bonus pattern sheet in every issue of Creative Expressions.


World-renowned machine embroiderer, Jenny Haskins whose creativity and passion for beautiful colours, along with her philosophy on life “that it is never too late to be what you could have been”, is reflected in every glorious page. This luxuriously produced magazine attracts both the novice and the expert sewer, quiltmaker or embroiderer around the world.

In this issue:
Jenny's Essence Quilt - featured on the front cover
Through the Garden Gate Part 1
Customized Garment Apparel to Embellish
Lavender & Lace Key Minders
Plus many other creative ideas for you to enjoy!!


Note from Serena: The front cover caught my eye as soon as I saw this newest issue of Creative Expressions! You won't want to miss this issue and the fabulous techniques discussed inside the pages!

Pick up your copy today!

Quilting Rulers: What size should I buy?

If you have just started to investigate the world of quilting, the vast array of quilting rulers consisting of squares, rectangles and triangles can be overwhelming! Do you have to own every single shape in every single size? No, you don't need every single ruler that is out there, but there are a few that are helpful.

There are three rulers that are my favorite and that I cannot do without. I use them for cutting, marking and multiple other things. The first ruler I love using is my long Omnigrid 6" wide by 24" long ruler. The long edge of the ruler provides a long straight edge for cutting long strips and borders. I can cut long pieces in one long length without having to reposition my ruler multiple times.

The next ruler I use much of the time is my 6" x 12" ruler. It is an easy size to handle, twist around and cut small pieces. The 6" width gives plenty of room for easily cutting 2" - 6" wide squares or strips. My Omnigrid 6 x 12 also has 30, 60 and 90 degree angled markings. This is the ruler I use for most of my mitered corners of a quilt border or a mitered pillow flange. It's the perfect size and the 90 degree angle makes cutting miters a breeze.

My third favorite ruler is my 3" x 18" and the one I use the most. The length of 18" is perfect for many of the 14" - 18" quilt blocks I most often use in my quilting and embroidery. It is easy to pick up and use without having to work with a really long ruler. The 3" width gives me a few inches to work with when I am marking staight lines and measurements.

I not only use my quilting rulers for cutting quilt blocks and pieces, but also for measuring and marking lines on the fabric. On the quilt I am currently working on, MarJen for Error, I need to cut the quilt blocks 18" square. For cutting these, I will use my 24" long quilting ruler. I can cut the 18" in one cut and not have to reposition the ruler. Then I mark a horizontal, vertical and two diagonal lines on the block to mark the center for embroidery placement. I use my 18" ruler for this job. The longer ruler tends to get cumbersome as I am marking, but the 18" ruler is just right for the job!

You will find out that certain rulers are more helpful for certain types of blocks or pieces you are cutting. Start with a couple rulers and see what works the easiest for you. You can always add to your ruler collection as your quilting ability grows. There are triangular and specialty rulers that will aid you in special projects. But at first, stick to the basic rulers and learn how to cut multiple kinds of pieces from each one.

Sweet little blanket

One thing I love doing is embroidered baby receiving blankets! They are quick and easy and make such a great personalized gift! Here is a pink blanket I stitched a couple weeks ago for someone who needed a gift for a new little one.

It is 1 1/4 yards of pink flannel where the edges have been roll hemmed on a serger. The design is from OESD and one of my favorite embroidery packs with cute baby designs! Add lettering to the design in my computer software, send it to the machine and stitch it! Simple and so sweet!

Like to make your own receiving blanket? See this article for my simple directions and see here for other blanket ideas! Have a blanket that has a flaw? See my flawed blanket that turned out so cute when I was finished!

MarJen for Error - Embroidered strips are underway...

One strip of fabric stitching in the machine.

The second strip in the hoop and ready to stitch!

My machine had been busy stitching purple floral designs for the embroidered strips on the MarJen for Error quilt. The floral design is the same all the way down the strips, it is only rotated 180 degrees for every other design. This gives it the intwining ribbon look.

I made a few changes to the embroidery design itself. When I stitched the first design, it was missing come underlay stitches (those crazy stitches that seem to have no purpose, but help to stabilize the fabric). Some of the leaves were a step stitch and some were a fancy stitch, so I changed all of them to be the same fancy stitch, which helps to give the leaf texture.

The design itself takes about 1 1/2 hours to stitch by the time you count in thread changes. There are two strips with 10 designs on each one. So there are quite a few hours of embroidery. But at least my machine can be stitching as I am doing other things. And with 2 embroidery hoops and 2 strips of fabric, I can alternate between the two and get more stitching accomplished in a smaller amount of time.

I have one strip in the machine stitching. While it's stitching, I can get the other strip, marked and hooped in the second hoop so it is ready to embroider as soon as the first is finished. My machine just keeps on stitching!

The purple on the yellow looks fantastic!! I'm so excited about the color combination - it looks gorgeous!!

Only a few days left on our special introductory offer...

Don't miss out on this special offer for the NEW floral decorative rotary cutters from Olfa!!

These retail for $19.99, but as a special introductory offer, they will be on sale for $17.99 through August 18th!

You may already have a rotary cutter, but these are so fun and unique, you will want a plum or orange cutter also! Plus, why not have one to keep at home and have one packed ready to take to your local classes?!

Pick up your fun rotary cutter today before they all disappear!

Quilting Rulers; what is the best brand?

There are hundreds of quilting rulers in all shapes and sizes with many different manufactors! If you are just getting started quilting or even if you have been quilting for a while, all the rulers, sizes and brands can get so confusing! Which brand is the best? Can you use several kinds of rulers in the same project? How can you pick the best one to use?

There are many brands of rulers available, but there a few major ones that sell the most popular and common sizes - Omnigrid, Olfa, Nifty Notions, Quilter's Rule, Creative Grid and ClearView. These companies have rulers available in square, rectangle, triangle and specialty shapes.

What you need to look for in a ruler is accuracy and precision with each cut you make. If you have a ruler that is a 1/32 off of a measurement, that will multiple with each piece or block that you cut and stitch. On large blocks or pieces, that may not be such an issue. But with small pieces that are repeated over and over, that 1/32 will add up quickly and make your fabric pieces harder to match and piece together as you are stitching.

I have found that I prefer Omnigrid and believe that it tends to be the most accurate in its measurements and sizes. I not only like the accuracy they provide, but also enjoy the 30, 45 & 60 degree marked lines for cutting miters and angled pieces. Their rulers provide clearly marked lines and are easy to use. I have used several other brands and while they are great rulers also, I usually find myself going back to Omnigrid.

No matter what brand of ruler you are using, the most important thing you can do it use the same brand or ruler throughout your project! You are more likely to find inconsistencies in your blocks if you alternate brands of rulers on the same project. I may need a larger ruler to cut 12 1/2" squares, but also a smaller ruler to cut 3" x 12 1/2" strips. I may switch from a 12 1/2" square ruler to a 3" x 18" rectangle ruler, but they will both be Omnigrid.

Another reason I prefer Omnigrid rulers is for the selection and variety in rulers they make. I can switch rulers throughout my project, knowing that I am not losing accuracy in the pieces I am cutting. No matter what brand you have or what brand you like, stick with the same one throughout your project.

You will find everyone has a personal preference in quilting rulers. You will too, so try cutting with several brands and see what is the easiest for you to use. You want a ruler that you will be able to pick up and use with just a glance at it. I would recommend that you stick with one of the major brands that carry multiple sizes and shapes, so you can easily switch rulers and not have to fear changing rulers and getting mismatched blocks.

The fabric swap envelope has arrived!

I was pleasantly surprised when I was handed a stuffed envelope at the post office yesterday! I looked at the return address and knew it was our fabric swap envelope!



I received eight pieces of luscious looking fabric and has fun looking through them! The Maywood Studio nature scene looks so fun, I'll have to create something with it. And I love the Benartex border print, maybe I can figure out some kind of wall hanging with mitered corners and use this for the border!

They will all be great additions to my stash of fabric. From the enclosed notes, it looks like everyone else also enjoyed swapping fabrics! There will be another fabric swap coming up in another month or two with a new twist, so stay tuned for updates in the future!

MarJen for Error - quilt block #2 finished

This is the little swirls stitch I decided would go on the seams inside the dresden plate block. It has an open, airy look to it that doesn't cover up the fabric after it is stitched. I stitched it in the medium color of purple.

On the outer edge of the block, there is my favorite little oval stitch! I stitched it in the dark purple thread which just makes it look so rich - just what it needed around the edge! This block is finished. There will be 6 more blocks just like this one to make a total of 7.

New Embroidered Quilt Class to start in September!

This is for a local embroidered quilt class I am teaching. If you are interested in participating in an online class, please email me.

I have the dates set to start this fun new quilt and I am so excited about getting started! It has been fun stitching the blocks and figuring out the new techniques to each one! I hope you will join me on this quilting journey!

Monday, September 17th, 7:00 PM - Let's See the Quilt!
Dodge City Public Library, Upstairs Lois Flanagan Room, 1001 N Second Ave.
The library will be open until 8:00pm, so you can use the Library entrance or the outside door entrance.

We will have an afternoon and evening class, so everyone can choose which time will be more convenient. This first introduction meeting will be only in the evening, but you will be able to choose either afternoon or evening times for the quilt classes, which will start in October.

This meeting will be a quilt introduction and I will be giving details for the quilt and the classes to follow. There is no charge for this class, so come, see the quilt and find out all the fun class details!

We will talk about the different fabrics, embroidery threads and designs that are used in the quilt. We will go through making the quilt step-by-step so you will know what you will be doing each month to complete the quilt.

The quilt will take about a year to complete. Each month we will work on a different part of the quilt, taking it step by step until we're done! You'll be given detailed instructions as to what we will be cutting and stitching in class.

MarJen for Error is a quilt that has embroidered panels with some quilting techniques it it. The directions for the quilt are in Creative Expressions magazine special edition - MarJen for Error. This magazine is currently out of print, but I have several copies I have been hanging onto for those who do not have a copy of this magazine.

If you would like to see a photo of the MarJen for Error quilt, click here. This is the photo that is in the magazine. I will continue to post updates as I complete the quilt here on my blog.

Quick Solutions for Embroidery Mistakes

This is the sixth and final lesson in our series - Common Embroidery Flops, Causes & Solutions! I hope you have picked up some tips to use in the next design that doesn't turn out the way it should!

The first step when you are stitching embroidery designs is to eliminate as many possible problems that could occur. Keep your machine blown out and free from thread and lint in the bobbin area and tension discs. Oil your machine according to your instruction manual to keep it running smoothly. Have your machine serviced regularly by an authorized dealer.

Keep an eye on your machine as it is stitching. This doesn’t mean that you have to sit and watch every stitch, but be aware and listen as it is stitching. Some designs may need babysitting, but most will allow you to be doing something else between thread colors.

When the needle breaks is not the only time to change the needle. Titanium needles should be replaced every 10-12 hours of stitching or approximately 400,000 stitches. If the needle is causing thread breakage or thread pulls in the fabric, change it before something worse happens like a broken needle and a hole in your fabric.

Pay attention to where you moved the design in the hoop - up, down, left or right or rotated the design - clockwise or counterclockwise. Most machines will have numbers on the screen that will inform you as to where you moved the design. Usually a positive or negative number will be assigned to the vertical and horizontal movement of the design. Each number represents one point of movement. The positive and negative values will inform you as to vertical movement going up or down and horizontal movement going left or right. For example: You move the design down 20 movement points and your vertical movement is -20. The negative tells you that you moved the design down and the 20 means you moved it down 20 points. Always write the numbers down to where you moved the design or rotated the design. If power is lost to your machine, you can always return to the exact placement!

Use good quality fabric and garments. Fabrics that are lower in thread count will be more likely to create puckers in the fabric or holes with a dense design. Garments need to be able to hold a design and not weigh it down. Fusible interfacing can be applied to lighter weight fabrics and garments. Using spray starch will also give the fabric or garment more body and helps prevent puckering and misplaced outlines. Use quality embroidery thread and bobbin thread designed for embroidery. These threads will flow smoothly through your machine and achieve the design that looks great! Stitch professional digitized designs. No matter your fabric, thread or stabilizer, if the design itself is incorrect, your finished project will never turn out the way you want it to.

Use the right combination of stabilizers with the fabrics you are stitching. Follow the guidelines for cut away, tear away, aqua film and badgemaster. Knits, fabrics with stretch and large density designs (30,000+) need cut away stabilizer and possibly aqua film as a topping to prevent puckers, design distortion and misplaced outlines. Cottons, denim and lighter weight designs (30,000 or below) can use tear away stabilizer and depending on the fabric, usually won’t require aqua film. Badgemaster backing needs to be used on towels and other projects where you don’t want the backing to show. Towels, velvet, flannel and other fabrics with a nap require aqua film so the stitches will not sink into the fabric.

Do consider the time and materials involved in fixing the design. If it requires 2 hours of ripping on a $5 shirt, it may not be worth the time involved to rip the design. However, if the shirt is a birthday gift for a granddaughter’s birthday tomorrow and this is the only shirt you have at midnight, you may want to consider the ripping job or find a quicker solution. So keep in mind the project value and time involved!

Every mistake or flop that happens will be different and may need to be fixed with a unique method. The design size and density, fabric stability, threads and stabilizer all will effect the way your design is fixed. The most important thing to remember is to keep your cool and let your mind drift to different ways of how your project can be saved. Pressing is the first thing you want to do. Pressing can eliminate puckers and improve the overall look of the design; always press before you proceed to other solutions.

Markers, colored pencils and crayons can fix color mistakes. Instead of ripping the color that you don’t like, try coloring it with a marker or pencil. If your bobbin thread is showing on the front of your design, use a fine tip marker to color in the white sprinkles. If your fabric bleeds on white lettering, try using a bleach pen on just the thread to get the thread back to white. Be careful not to bleach your fabric!

If the fabric puckers around your design, try spray starching the back of the fabric and design. Sometime this will help to eliminate some of the wrinkles. Stipple or use other quilting methods to eliminate puckers around a design. Fuse interfacing to the back of a design to eliminate a rough texture or threads that feel scratchy.

Misplaced outlines can be repaired by filling in with straight stitches or satin stitches with your sewing machine. If outlines are completely off, create an applique with another fabric to place over the bad design. Fabric corners and garment hems and sleeves tend to hide underneath the hoop without your knowledge until the design is finished. Hems may need to be shortened or fabric added.

Ripping is sometimes necessary, unfortunate, but true. An outline may need to be ripped in places where it is misplaced. Try to avoid ripping on knits; you will usually end up with some holes in the knit. Consider the type of stitch before you start ripping. A satin stitch is simple to rip, but a step fill stitch will be more complex.

Mismatching borders, ink spots and fabric flaws can be covered up with 3D flowers, leaves, butterflies or other designs. Free standing lace designs can be stitched on badgemaster and tulle. Try stitching various other designs on cut away, polymesh or felt, cut out the designs and apply where needed. Try using crystals, jewels, beads and buttons to cover up mistakes.

As hard as we try to prevent errors from occurring, they will happen. And be guaranteed that the same mistake will probably happen more than once! But don't get discouraged when mistakes happen. There are many ways to fix them and you may come up with some creative ideas that you may want to use again in the future! :)

MarJen for Error Quilt Photo

Click the photo to enlarge.

For those of you who haven't seen the full quilt photo that is in the magazine, here it is. I'm making a few changes in the quilt I am doing and will make the same changes in the class I'll be teaching, but the basic quilt pattern is the same. Except for colors; they are different! :)

I will be starting a local class on this quilt in September with an introduction class to get everyone familiar with the details and we will start the actual quilt in October. Would anyone be interested in participating in an online class? If this is something you would be interested in, please email me. Thanks!!

MarJen for Error - working on quilt block #2

This is my trial-and-error block for the second block that is in the MarJen for Error quilt. It is the dresden plate circular plate block that uses Marti Michell's clear, acrylic templates to make the dresden plate.

This block has more of the yellow fabric which offsets the purple used in the previous block. I fussy cut the same purple fabric that I used before, but picked out a different flower. There are four of the triangular topped fan pieces.


Then I used the same print, but with a yellow background for the other four fussy cut circular topped fan pieces. Again, I picked out a different pansy so they were not the same as what I had used in the other block or previous purple fabric. The flower itself is consistent in each block and throughout the quilt.


There are eight yellow vine fabric pieces which are not fussy cut for a couple of reasons. First, the floral print is small enough, that fussy cutting it wasn't worth it and didn't create the neat look that fussy cutting usually does. Second, I needed something to go in between the fussy cut yellow and purple pieces to make them stand out. If all the pieces were fussy cut, it wouldn't have the same dramatic effect.

This was my first time to use Marti's templates and it was a piece of cake. The clear templates are worth their weight in gold. Granted, it does take quite a bit of time to fussy cut the fabric, but the end results are most certainly worth it! I cut lots of the fan pieces from several fabrics before deciding on the ones I wanted in the block.


I did do some changing. (Of course, that is what makes stitching the quilt so fun! :)) I eliminated the step of stitching the circular top to interfacing and turning it to enclose the raw edge. I just stitched all the fan side seams together in the order I wanted them and then fused Heat'n'Bond wonderunder to the back of it.


I would be stitching decorative stitches over the top edge of the circular fans and triangular fans, so the raw edge would be covered anyway. Also, if there is a seam at the top, it creates a slight ridge which can cause problems when stitching decorative stitches around it.


This saves quite a bit of time and it much easier than doing it the way the template direction tell you to. Of course if I were not going to finish the edge with a decorative stitch, I would still have to do the stitch and turn thing, so there would not be an open raw edge to fray.

I played with several decorative stitches and colors. I wanted to work in some yellow thread in the stitches since the embroidery design and stitches on the previous block are all purple, but it just didn't seem to fit in. When I stitched a few rows with lighter and darker yellow thread, it just seems to be hidden and does not pop out like the purple does.

I also played with the idea of just stitching decorative stitches along the seam lines and not around the outer edge. But I soon eliminated that idea. With everything else, if the outer edge wasn't stitched, it just looked unfinished - like it needed something else to it. The above photo is just the dresden plate without decoratives stitches on it.

MarJen for Error - quilt block #1 completed

I actually finished the first quilt block for the MarJen for Error quilt I am working on last week, but haven't had a chance to post it until now. I have the decorative stitches finished on it. It's completely done except for trimming it down to size and maybe stippling.

There are 8 blocks of this same design in the quilt. So once one block is done, you just have to make 7 more just like it. That makes it pretty easy!

This shows the decoratives I used on the corner fan. The little oval stitch is one of my favorite stitches! I have used it on so many projects and it creates a soft finish to complement the fabric.

I can't decide whether to attach batting to each block and stipple as I have done in the past. Or just complete the quilt top and then add batting and stipple it. I know it will be easier to stipple now than later, but I think I want to try something different this time.

You can see the photo of the entire quilt here.

New! Decorative Floral 45 mm Rotary Cutters

These colorful rotary cutters are just too fun to resist! I've been anticipating their arrival for a couple months and found them to better than I thought!! No, I don't really need another rotary cutter, but I love the new floral prints and will use one to keep next to my sewing machine for quick cuts! :)

Add a little floral color to your sewing and quilting with this neat, new rotary cutter from Olfa. Check out the NEW decorative floral print patterns, Calantha Plum or Calantha Orange.

It is the Olfa size 45mm, the most popular and an easy rotary cutter to use for quilting, sewing, paper crafts and much, much more!

This tool is designed for right and left handed use. It is sure to spice up your current rotary cutter assortment! One rotary cutter is never enough! :)

These retail for $19.99, but as a special introductory offer, they will be on sale for $17.99 through August 18th!

You may already have a rotary cutter, but these are so fun and unique, you will want a plum or orange cutter also! Plus, why not have one to keep at home and have one packed ready to take to your local classes?!

Pick up your fun rotary cutter today before they all disappear!