Fall Fleece Jacket
by Serena Smith
www.embtreasures.com
In this project I used random embroidery placement to create a fun jacket!
Embroidering on fleece takes more consideration when choosing designs,
stabilizers, and threads. Working with fleece and berber is fun and easy if you
follow the guideline listed on the back. Have fun stitching!!
Supplies
Jacket pattern
Fleece or berber
Poly Mesh stabilizer
Aqua Film topping
OESD Design - #FM203
Sulky embroidery thread (1181-Rust, 1126-L. Brown, 1131-D. Brown, 1170-Brown,
1149-Tan)
505 Spray Adhesive
Straight pins
Fabric Construction:
Pre-wash the fabric and cut out the jacket pattern pieces. If you would like the
jacket lined, cut out a lining also. DO NOT sew the pieces together! Baste 5/8"
away from each fabric piece edge on the side seams, armholes, shoulders, and
neck. Baste along the bottom of jacket where the hemline will be. If buttons are
down the front of the jacket, baste across center front edges, allowing for the
overlap. These basting lines will show you the boundaries on the jacket for
embroidery placement.
Design Preparation:
Open OESD Design FM203 into your embroidery software program. Select the biggest
brown leaf. Copy and paste the leaf onto a new file. Enlarge the leaf 20%. Name
this file “Fall Leaf #1". Go back to design FM203 and select the medium orange
leaf. Copy and paste the leaf onto a new file. Enlarge the leaf 20%. Name this
file “Fall Leaf #2". Note–When you are modifying designs, always save the edited
design into a new file; never save over the original!
Print multiple copies of each single leaf design with the X and Y lines. (The
point where the X and Y lines intersect is the center of the design.) These will
be the templates to know where to place the embroidery. Cut out around the
design template. Write the name of the design and mark the top and bottom of
design on the back of the template.
If you do not have computer software, you can stitch the original design (all 3
leaves) in place of “Fall Leaf #1" and “Fall Leaf #2". Create a template with
your machine by stitching the outline of the design or the entire design on cut
away. Hoop 1-2 layers of cut-away and mark the x and y lines with a pen, using
your grid. Then stitch your design in the middle of the hoop. After stitching is
complete, trim around the stitched design, leaving some of the marked x and y
lines. Photocopy the stitched design. Cut out around the design template. Write
the name of the design and mark the top and bottom of design on the back of the
template.
Embroidery:
Randomly scatter both leaf templates over jacket front and back. These do not
have to be exact, but should not look sloppy or haphazard. Pin templates in
place. Be sure you put ALL the leaves falling down.
Cut 3" squares of aqua film--enough for one square per leaf. Lay aside.
Hoop 2 layers of poly mesh. Although this design has a low stitch count, the 2
layers give more stability for stitching multiple designs. Since these designs
are small and do not require exact placement, you will be able to stitch
multiple designs in one hooping.
To do this, spray 505 on the hooped stabilizer in the upper left corner. Begin
with the designs at the neckline and work your way down. Place the highest leaf
on one of the jacket fronts on the sprayed stabilizer corner. You do not need to
worry about straightening the grainlines. For this design, small degrees of
rotation will add variety to the finished project. Although, be sure the leaves
are not rotated so much that they are upside down.
Adhere the fabric to stabilizer and remove template, marking the approximate
center of the design. Pin an aqua film square on top of the fabric where the
design will be stitched. Be sure the pins will not interfere with the stitching.
Snap the hoop onto the machine. Send the file that matches the design template
to be stitched to the machine. On-screen, move the design in the hoop, matching
the on-screen center with the center marked on the fabric. Stitch.
After stitching is complete, take the hoop out of the machine. DO NOT take the
fabric out of the hoop! Select another nearby leaf on the fleece. Spray another
area of the stabilizer and stick the fleece to it. Be sure that the area to be
stitched is not overlapping the other stitched leaf. You may need to pin extra
fabric out of the way. Take off the template, mark design center, and put an
aqua film square over the stitching area.
Put the hoop in the machine. Match the onscreen center with the marked fabric
center and stitch. Continue to select another leaf on the jacket front, place on
stabilizer, and stitch. Don’t forget to pin on a square of aqua film!
The more designs you stitch, the more bunched your fabric will become in the
hoop. Be careful that the bunched fabric doesn’t get caught in the stitching or
hung up on the machine, causing the embroidery to be misaligned. Depending on
the hoop size you are using, you should be able to embroider 5-10 designs in one
hooping. Isn’t that a great way to save stabilizer?! :)
After the hoop is filled, take the fabric out of the hoop. Cut away the poly
mesh close to the stitching and tear off the aqua film. Hoop another 2 layers of
poly mesh and repeat the process for the other jacket front and back.
After all the embroidery is complete, trim the loose threads. Finish your jacket
by stitching the pieces together along the basted line on the fabric. Complete
the hem as marked by the basting stitches.
Now step back and admire the masterpiece you created! Wasn’t that fleece fun to
stitch?! :)
Fleece and Berber Tips
• Selecting fabric - Choose a high quality fleece or berber that will withstand
decorative stitching. If the fabric has a high loft, you may need to raise the
pressure foot pressure on the machine to allow the foot to glide over the
fabric.
• Use spray adhesive - Don’t hoop the fleece. Hoop the stabilizer and spray it
with 505 spray adhesive. Then stick the fabric to the stabilizer. This will
prevent permanent hoop marks.
• Use cut away stabilizer - Because this fabric stretches you will need to use
heavy cut away or light weight poly mesh.
• Use a water-soluble topping - Using aqua film on top of the fleece or berber
will prevent the stitches from sinking down in the fabric and help keep accurate
stitching.
• Choosing designs - Select simple, less dense, motifs. Dense designs pile in
too many stitches and interfere with the drape of the fabric. Designs with satin
and fill stitches will show up more than outline stitches, especially if the
fleece has a high loft.
• Threads - Choose decorative threads that will not get lost in the loft of the
fleece. For more visible stitching lines, use 2 strands of threads or stitch the
design twice.
Click here to open an Acrobat Reader pdf file for printing.
Copyright © 2006 Serena Smith
These instructions are not to be sold or distributed in any way without my
permission.
Direct others to www.embtreasures.com
for downloading. Thank You!
