Why do you need more than one rotary cutter?

Rotary cutters are necessary in quilter's world and who doesn't have more than one?! And I don't mean more than one size (although that is true as well!), I mean more than one of the same size cutter! If you are like me, I'm always anxious to try out the newest and greatest rotary cutter and therefore my little drawer that holds all my cutters is rather full.

But it can be an advantage to having more than one rotary cutter. One thing I do is keep one cutter with a sharp blade for cutting fabrics. Another one has a dull blade that I use for cutting paper and plastic templates. When my fabric cutting blade gets dull and hard to cut with fabric, I insert a new blade and recycle the old blade to the paper cutting rotary cutter.

Not only can I get more use out of my blades, but it is much more efficient to cut out paper patterns and templates from template plastic with a rotary cutter than a pair of scissors. But I'm still able to keep my rotary cutter blade sharp for cutting fabric.

So the next time you are quilt shopping and see a brand new rotary cutter, but think to yourself that you already have one and you really don't need another, just consider using a second one for cutting templates. What better excuse for another neat rotary cutter?! :)

Blind stitch the binding to your quilt

Hand tacking the binding down to the back of your quilt can be easy and fun to do, especially if you enjoy handwork. Here is a quick and easy way to stitch a blind stitch.

Fold the binding to the back of the quilt. Thread a small quilting needle with a single strand of thread and knot the end. Bring the needle through the seam allowance of the quilt and knot it a couple of times before starting to stitch the binding down. The thread end needs to be secure before you start stitching.

Fold the folded binding edge over the seam allowance of the quilt so the binding edge just covers the line of machine stitching where you attached the binding to the top of the quilt.

Run your needle under the backing fabric, in between the backing and batting, about a 1/4" tuck of fabric. Bring your needle up and through a few threads of the folded edge of binding. Pull the thread securely. Be sure not to go through to the front of the quilt; you don't want your stitches to show.

Repeat this over and over to tack the binding down the back of your quilt. Your stitches should be 1/4" - 3/8" to hold the binding down securely. Continue around the entire quilt and knot your thread in the seam allowance to tie off at the end.

Not sure how to attach your quilt binding to your quilt? See here.

Cut on the lengthwise fabric grain!

Quilt sashing, borders and binding can be cut across the width or down the length of the fabric -both are considered straight of grain. We know they should not be cut on the bias grain because of the great amount of stretch bias has, but should they be cut lengthwise or crosswise?

Here's a quick fabric grainline wrap-up:

The length of the fabric is called the lengthwise grain which are the warp threads that are long threads secured to the loom. The continuous yardage off the bolt is the length of the fabric.

The width of the fabric is called the crosswise grain which are the weft threads that are woven back and forth across the warp threads to create the fabric. The fabric width is from selvedge to selvedge.

Both the lengthwise and crosswise grains are straight of grain verses the bias grainline, which is a 45 degree angle from the straight of grains.

Many times we determine how we cut these pieces for our quilts by how large of a piece of fabric we have to use. But consider this: the lengthwise grain has very little to no stretch compared to the fabric width.

Your quilt sashing, borders and binding holds your quilt together and helps to keep the quilt even on all sides and squared up as it should be. Many quilt blocks contain bias and straight edges that need sashing or a border to give the edges support and keep the block square.

If the sashing or border has some stretch to it, the block is not getting that support it needs. It may not always be possible, but always try to cut your quilt sashes, borders and binding on the lengthwise grain. This will keep your quilt squared up and closer to the measurement it should be.

Give it a try and see for your self: Cut two, 2" wide by 6" wide strips of fabric; one on the lengthwise grain and one on the crosswise grain and see which one has more stretch to it. You'll be amazed at the difference!

Leftover Batting Scraps

Do you have a stash of leftover batting from your quilts hiding in your sewing room? What do you do with it? Keep it and let the pile continue to build? Do you piece it together to make more quilts?

Many times larger pieces of batting can be pieced together with an open or sewn-out zigzag stitch. I will of often save medium pieces of batting to use for smaller projects like wall hangings, placemats, potholders and other small projects.

If my batting pieces are too small for other projects, I will sandwich it between two pieces of muslin and use it for freehand quilting practice. This is a good way to practice those quilting feathers and stippling techniques before starting on your quilt. You can also use batting as stuffing if it is pulled apart to prevent lumps in pillows and stuffed animals.

There are many uses for batting other than placing it between fabric. Try setting a piece by your sewing machine to catch and hold loose threads. Use it to wipe a table covered with raveled threads. The batting will grab onto the threads and pick them up. Use it as packing material to pack packages being sent in the mail. Place pieces of batting between china to act as a buffer and protect it.

Stitch several small projects, practice some quilting techniques and stuff some batting in those Christmas packages you are sending and enjoy getting rid of some of your quilt batting stash!

Check out this great idea for using batting scraps to make a two sided quilt!

Quick Binding Clips

Stitching the binding on your quilt can be one of the greatest joys of your project for several reasons: (1) - Cutting and stitching to binding to the quilt is not that difficult, (2) - Tacking the binding on by hand is something to enjoy if you love doing handwork (and I do, don't you? :)) and (3) - the greatest reason of all - If you are stitching the binding, it means you are almost finished with your quilt!

Tacking the binding on by hand after you have already stitched it to the front of the quilt is not too difficult, although it can be time consuming! When I am hand tacking my binding I like to put straight pins in the quilt edge to hold the binding and mitered corners in place as I am stitching.

This works great except for two major problems - (1) the thread I am stitching with tends to get caught and wrapped around the pins and (2) pins have a sharp point (they are supposed to, you know!) and when you have 10-20 pins in a quilt, you are bound to get stuck a few times!

What's the solution? Quilt binding clips! I discovered quilt binding clips several months ago and have greatly enjoyed using them for holding down my quilt binding. The binding clips consist of a metal clip that you can easily clip over the edge of your quilt.

Not only are they quick and easy to clip on your quilt, but they contain no sharp points or edges! I can put binding clips over an area of my quilt and stitch the binding or I can even put in binding clips all the way around before stitching. They have a holding grip and will grip the fabric until you remove them. Plus no sharp points or thread tangling to worry about! :)

Give these useful binding clips a try!

Rulers & Templates: Stay in place!

It has happened to me and I'm sure it has happened to you also. You have your quilting ruler or template in just the right place, your rotary cutter is halfway down the length of the ruler and your ruler moves! It's one of the most frustrating things that can happen and can have results that make you end of cutting another piece.

What's the solution? Try using scotch tape! Tear off a piece of scotch tape, double it over so it is sticky on both sides and place it on the underneath side of your ruler. Put several pieces of tape in different places under the ruler. Place the ruler on your fabric where you will need to be cutting. If you need to reposition, just lift the ruler and place it down again. You are ready to cut!

Sticking tape to the back of plastic templates also works very well. If you have a template placed on the fabric and then a ruler on top of the template to make the cut, the ruler and template tend to want to slide against each other. Just put on a couple of pieces of scotch tape, attaching the template to the fabric and the ruler to the template. Your sliding problem will just disappear!

You should be able to reuse the scotch tape on your ruler or template several times before the tape needs to be replaced. On some fabrics scotch tape can leave a small residue mark, so try using blue painters tape instead. Blue painters tape is just like masking tape, but does not leave a residue mark and is blue in color.

Give it a try and see if it works for you!

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Do quilting rulers and brands of quilting rulers have you confused? Take a peek at my favorite rulers and why I love using them!

See how you can make your own plastic template and still use a rotary cutter to cut your fabric!

Introducing...Shaggy Raggy Quilt Pattern

Need a simple and easy quilt project? Try a Shaggy Raggy Quilt! This is a perfect project for any child learning to sew or any adult brand new to the world of quilting. Create this fun quilt from just 6-7 fabrics such as flannel or cotton!

Cut the blocks, stitch them together, clip the seams, throw it in the wash and watch shaggy raggy edges spring up in your quilt! Use easy-to-sew fabrics that will ravel such as flannel, cotton or denim. Cut fabric sandwich blocks, stitch the blocks into rows and sew the rows together to create a finished quilt!

Two sizes included in pattern; crib - 36" x 42" & lap - 54" x 66"

Sewing level - Beginner

Note from Serena: I have taught the Shaggy Raggy Quilt as a class multiple times and after requests for a pattern, it is now available! With my detailed instructions and clear illustrations you will be able to create your fun quilt! I am so excited to have this first pattern published and hope you will enjoy creating your own Shaggy Raggy Quilt!

I am so excited about this fun pattern that I am offering it to you at a special price for a limited time! This pattern retails for $5.99, but as a special introductory offer, it will be on sale for $3.99 through September 15th!

Create Your Own Plastic Templates

Quilting rulers are great for cutting quilt pieces, blocks and borders. From itty, bitty, tiny quilt triangles to long, wide borders, quilt rulers are a must! Throw in a cutting mat and rotary cutter and you are all set to go. It is so quick and easy to set your ruler down on the correct measurement, run your rotary cutter up against it and your fabric is cut. So much quicker than marking it and cutting with a pair of scissors!


Rules are available in all shapes and sizes for cutting all kinds of fabric triangles, squares and borders. But there is not the exact size ruler for every single quilt piece or block in any size. Many times a ruler can be turned this way and that to make it cut the piece you need, but having the actual size you need to cut is very helpful.


That is when you need to create your own template. I love to use clear plastic template sheets and cut them to the exact size I need them to be. The sheets are semi-clear which allows you to see through to the fabric you are cutting. You can easily cut the template sheets with a pair of scissors into the shape you need. Plus you can also write on the plastic with an ink pen which allows you to mark lines and label each piece.


For the current quilt blocks I am working on, I needed a square ruler measuring 14 1/2" x 14 1/2" to cut my blocks down to size. Omnigrid, my favorite brand of quilting rulers, does not make a 14 1/2" square ruler. They make a 15 1/2" square, which I could use, but not a 14 1/2".


But I can make my own template that is the exact 14 1/2" I need using plastic template sheets! The template sheets are 14" x 20", but I can tape two sheets together for a larger size. Using my rotary cutter and cutting mat, I can then cut the template plastic down to 14 1/2". I will draw horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines on the template. This marks the center of the template and helps for placement when cutting down the blocks.


A rotary cutter will cut though the template, so I have to use it with a quilting ruler when I'm cutting the blocks. All I have to do is lay the template square on the block and center it where it I would like it. Pick up my quilting ruler, line it up against one side of the template and use my rotary cutter to cut off the excess fabric. The rotary cutter is cutting against the ruler, so it will not cut into the plastic. I can continue to cut the other three sides.


Yes, I could use the 15 1/2" square ruler and cut my blocks down to 14 1/2". But it is much easier to have an exact 14 1/2" square, center it over the block and trim off the excess fabric. Why? I am trying to keep the quilt design in the center of the block, still centered in the block after it is cut down to size. When I have the correct size placed on top the block, I can easily measure the distance from the embroidery center to the template edge.


If I am only needing to cut one block, I would just use the 15 1/2" square, but since I will be cutting multiple blocks, it is much easier and saves time to make a template and use that to cut down the blocks. When you are needing a different or unusual size that the ruler you have, try creating your own template using template plastic and see how it works for you! I have multiple sizes of blocks made from template plastic and use them over and over!

Quilting Rulers: What size should I buy?

If you have just started to investigate the world of quilting, the vast array of quilting rulers consisting of squares, rectangles and triangles can be overwhelming! Do you have to own every single shape in every single size? No, you don't need every single ruler that is out there, but there are a few that are helpful.

There are three rulers that are my favorite and that I cannot do without. I use them for cutting, marking and multiple other things. The first ruler I love using is my long Omnigrid 6" wide by 24" long ruler. The long edge of the ruler provides a long straight edge for cutting long strips and borders. I can cut long pieces in one long length without having to reposition my ruler multiple times.

The next ruler I use much of the time is my 6" x 12" ruler. It is an easy size to handle, twist around and cut small pieces. The 6" width gives plenty of room for easily cutting 2" - 6" wide squares or strips. My Omnigrid 6 x 12 also has 30, 60 and 90 degree angled markings. This is the ruler I use for most of my mitered corners of a quilt border or a mitered pillow flange. It's the perfect size and the 90 degree angle makes cutting miters a breeze.

My third favorite ruler is my 3" x 18" and the one I use the most. The length of 18" is perfect for many of the 14" - 18" quilt blocks I most often use in my quilting and embroidery. It is easy to pick up and use without having to work with a really long ruler. The 3" width gives me a few inches to work with when I am marking staight lines and measurements.

I not only use my quilting rulers for cutting quilt blocks and pieces, but also for measuring and marking lines on the fabric. On the quilt I am currently working on, MarJen for Error, I need to cut the quilt blocks 18" square. For cutting these, I will use my 24" long quilting ruler. I can cut the 18" in one cut and not have to reposition the ruler. Then I mark a horizontal, vertical and two diagonal lines on the block to mark the center for embroidery placement. I use my 18" ruler for this job. The longer ruler tends to get cumbersome as I am marking, but the 18" ruler is just right for the job!

You will find out that certain rulers are more helpful for certain types of blocks or pieces you are cutting. Start with a couple rulers and see what works the easiest for you. You can always add to your ruler collection as your quilting ability grows. There are triangular and specialty rulers that will aid you in special projects. But at first, stick to the basic rulers and learn how to cut multiple kinds of pieces from each one.

Quilting Rulers; what is the best brand?

There are hundreds of quilting rulers in all shapes and sizes with many different manufactors! If you are just getting started quilting or even if you have been quilting for a while, all the rulers, sizes and brands can get so confusing! Which brand is the best? Can you use several kinds of rulers in the same project? How can you pick the best one to use?

There are many brands of rulers available, but there a few major ones that sell the most popular and common sizes - Omnigrid, Olfa, Nifty Notions, Quilter's Rule, Creative Grid and ClearView. These companies have rulers available in square, rectangle, triangle and specialty shapes.

What you need to look for in a ruler is accuracy and precision with each cut you make. If you have a ruler that is a 1/32 off of a measurement, that will multiple with each piece or block that you cut and stitch. On large blocks or pieces, that may not be such an issue. But with small pieces that are repeated over and over, that 1/32 will add up quickly and make your fabric pieces harder to match and piece together as you are stitching.

I have found that I prefer Omnigrid and believe that it tends to be the most accurate in its measurements and sizes. I not only like the accuracy they provide, but also enjoy the 30, 45 & 60 degree marked lines for cutting miters and angled pieces. Their rulers provide clearly marked lines and are easy to use. I have used several other brands and while they are great rulers also, I usually find myself going back to Omnigrid.

No matter what brand of ruler you are using, the most important thing you can do it use the same brand or ruler throughout your project! You are more likely to find inconsistencies in your blocks if you alternate brands of rulers on the same project. I may need a larger ruler to cut 12 1/2" squares, but also a smaller ruler to cut 3" x 12 1/2" strips. I may switch from a 12 1/2" square ruler to a 3" x 18" rectangle ruler, but they will both be Omnigrid.

Another reason I prefer Omnigrid rulers is for the selection and variety in rulers they make. I can switch rulers throughout my project, knowing that I am not losing accuracy in the pieces I am cutting. No matter what brand you have or what brand you like, stick with the same one throughout your project.

You will find everyone has a personal preference in quilting rulers. You will too, so try cutting with several brands and see what is the easiest for you to use. You want a ruler that you will be able to pick up and use with just a glance at it. I would recommend that you stick with one of the major brands that carry multiple sizes and shapes, so you can easily switch rulers and not have to fear changing rulers and getting mismatched blocks.

Titanium Needles: What are the Advantages?

Titanium needles are great for machine embroidery! Stop and really think about how many times the needle penetrates the fabric -- many times! For every stitch, the needle is being inserted into the fabric. So if your design has 20,000 stitches in it, the needle has gone through the fabric at least 20,000 times. This dulls your needle in a hurry! Titanium needles are a great help because they are stronger, last longer, less likely to break and keep your thread flowing smoothly through the eye of the needle!

Titanium needles are coated with titanium nitride layered on the surface of the needles. With the titanium coating, these needles last up to five times longer than conventional chrome-plated needles. They are more wear resistant which reduces needle breakage, bending and distorting. This is very advantageous for the reliability and durability when stitching embroidery designs.

The point of the needle is also strengthened with the titanium coating. The needle point dulls easily as it is continuously going in and out of the needle. This also causes the needle to wear and break. The titanium coating reinforced the strength of the needle without distorting the shape to provide more durability.

The Organ Needle Company makes titanium needles in a ballpoint and sharp. They are available in a 75/11, 80/12 and 90/14 size. Because of the titanium coating, these needles are a little heavier than a traditional needle. A titanium needle size 80/12 is comparable to a chrome needle size 90/14. For most of my embroidery, I use titanium needles size 80/12. They slide in and out of the fabric so smoothly. If I am stitching on sheer or very lightweight fabric, I usually change to the titanium size 75/11. The smaller size is perfect for the finer fabrics.

I don't know how I could stitch all the embroidery designs I do without using titanium needles! Titanium needles work very well with all kinds of threads - embroidery, metallic, metallic sliver, cotton, monofilament and polyester - they last longer, are less likely to break and help to prevent the thread from breaking. They are a little more expensive than Schmetz needles, but with the longer stitching time that they can be used, it ends up saving me $$ and LOTS of frustration! Not only do they last longer for machine embroidery, but they also work great for piecing, quilting and any other type of sewing! Give them and try and you will discover you can't sew without titanium needles!

If you haven't used a titanium needle and would like to try one, email me (info@embtreasures.com) with your name and mailing address. I will be glad to drop one in the mail for you to give it a try! Offer expires July 31, 2007.

A Quick Way to Safety Pin Quilts

Safety pins are an absolute must for pin basting quilt layers together to prepare for machine quilting. A large quilt can easily need 500 - 800 pins to adequately keep the layers from shifting. Pinning and unpinning all these pins can be very hard on your hands and fingers. After many broken nails and sore fingers, I discovered a tool called a Kwik Klip that is indispensable!

The Kwik Klip has a large, brown handle which allows you to easily grip it in your hand. A brass metal tip with grooves lets you open and close the safety pins.

Grip the handle in your hand. Pick up a safety pin and insert it into the fabric. Close the pin, using your thumb as leverage on the closure of the pin and the metal tip of the tool on the other side of the pin. The pin will be easily held in the groove on the tip of the tool, letting you close the pin.

To remove the safety pins, repeat the same procedure. Grip the Kwik Klip tool in your hand, hold your thumb on the pin closure and unpin it using the metal tip of the tool. Take the pin out of the fabric. Move to the next pin and continue unpinning.

With the Kwik Klip tool, you can quickly move from pin to pin, putting an end to sore fingers and broken fingernails! Give it a try on your next quilt and see if it works for you!

Watch the tutorial video below to see how to pin and unpin safety pins using the Kwik Klip tool.

Note: The video may take a couple minutes to download depending on your Internet connection.

If you have trouble viewing the tutorial above, click here for an alternative view.

Open or Closed Foot for Free Motion Quilting

Freehand or free motion quilting is a fun method of quilting. Free motion quilting is sewing without the feed dogs moving the fabric through the machine. The feed dogs are lowered and you are in control of moving the fabric to create the pattern of stitches you desire. It takes a bit of practice to create even flowing stitches, but can be very fun and rewarding. A darning foot or free motion foot is needed to achieve these stitches.

There are two free motion presser feet I like to use for different areas on a quilt. One is a free motion quilting foot with an open toe and the other is a free motion foot with a closed tool. There are a couple of reasons why I like to use each one.

Open toe presser foot - An open toe presser foot is like a circular foot with an opening in the front of the circle. This foot makes it easy to slip the thread under the foot when I am starting and stopping in my quilting. The main reason I like this foot for most of my free motion quilting is that it gives me greater visibility to see my stitches as I am sewing. If I am following a pattern or design in the fabric, I can see exactly where I am and where I need to be going very easily with this foot.

Closed toe presser foot - I do most of my free motion quilting with the above open toe foot, except when I am stitching around embroidery designs. Then I use the closed toe foot, sometimes also called a darning foot. I love to quilt around embroidery designs in my quilt. It allows the designs to puff up and gives them a dimensional appearance. I use the closed toe foot for this stitching so the toes of the foot do not get caught in the embroidery stitches. It is so easy for the toes to catch in the threads of the embroidery and rip the embroidery stitches or cause uneven stitches in your quilting. But when I use the closed toe foot, I don't have to worry about either of those two things happening.

These two feet work well for me! Give them a try and see if they will work for your next quilting project!

The threads of the embroidery design catch
on the open toe presser foot.

The closed toe presser foot just glides over
the edge of the embroidery design.

Quilting Tools You Might Need

When you have the right tools to complete a project, it goes so much smoother and easier. The same is very true with machine quilting. If you have the tools to make it simpler and easier, your quilting will be much easier and more enjoyable. I've listed several items below that I cannot quilt without. Each one helps me through the quilting process from start to finish.

Extension table - There is no way I can quilt, especially a large quilt, without my clear, acrylic extension table that attaches to my machine. Because my sewing machine sits on a 6' table, the extension table gives me extra space to move the quilt around. If you have a sewing cabinet where your machine will set down inside so the bed of the machine is level with the table, that is the ideal solution! But right now, my machine is not sitting in a cabinet, so my extension table is a must have!

Extra tables - Allow for plenty of space behind and to the left of your sewing machine. This will eliminate the quilt falling off the table and dragging as you are stitching. When the quilt drags, it is much harder to move the fabric through the machine, plus you are more likely to get uneven stitches because you are working against the falling quilt. I set my machine toward the middle to right end of the 6' table. Then I add a table behind the 6' table and a table in front and to the left of my sewing machine. I can easily hold the quilt in front of me, supporting it on the table to my left. As the quilt passes through the machine, the table in back catches it so it doesn't fall of hang off. The two extra tables are portable and I can move them around if needed. When I am not quilting I can put them away to create more room in my sewing room.

Quilting gloves - Quilting gloves do two things. Their tight grip supports my hands and wrists as I am constantly moving the quilt layers. Plus the fingers are coated so that I am able to grip the fabric easier, making it easier to move back and forth. This pair of gloves fits snugly on my hand so they are not cumbersome or interfere with my quilting.

Freehand foot & walking foot - A freehand foot is absolutely necessary if you are planning any freehand stitching or stippling. I use both my Bernina stitch regulator (BSR), an open toe freehand foot and a closed circle freehand foot, depending on the kind of stitching I am doing. For stitching in the ditch, I use the walking foot so the layers will glide evenly through the machine.

Knee lever - The knee lever attached to my sewing machine works as a third hand, raising and lowering the presser foot with movement of my knee. This way I can keep both hands on my quilt to maneuver it and use my knee to lift and lower the presser foot. My hands don't ever have to leave the quilt.

Pillow - Because my table is higher than a sewing cabinet, my sewing machine sits higher. I use the pillow to sit on so I am at the right height for quilting. I want to be comfortably looking down at my stitches instead of straining to look up and see where I am going. Sitting at a comfortable height reduces the stress on your shoulders, back and arms. I always have an additional cushion attached to my sewing room chair, but when quilting I often will add a pillow or layer several pillows to get the height I need.

Putting the Quilt Top, Batting & Backing Together

There are many ways that you can sandwich the batting between the quilt top and backing to prepare for machine quilting. Whether it is thread basting or pinning the layers together with safety pins, there is more than one way to get the job accomplished!

My favorite place to spread out my quilt top, batting and backing is the floor. I know everyone may not have the space to do this or may be unable to crawl around on the floor, but it works very well for me. You will need to work on carpet that does not contain loops where the carpet fibers could get pinned to the quilt.

My first goal is to spread out the backing, wrong side up on the floor. I want the backing to be as smooth and wrinkle free as possible.

Using t-pins, I will pin the backing edges into the carpet every 12 - 15". I usually pin two sides and then pin the other two sides, carefully pulling the wrinkles out of the backing. As I am pinning the other two sides, I stretch the backing a little to keep it taunt. You will not want to pull it tight, it just needs a little tension to keep it smooth as layers are being added.

After the backing is smooth and wrinkle free, I start smoothing out the batting on top of the backing. The batting just needs to be laid over the backing. You do not want to stretch it out of shape or it could cause problems later. I start in a corner, leaving a couple inches of the backing showing. I work on one side at a time, carefully smoothing and gently pulling the batting to cover the backing.

I take several t-pins out of the backing edge and pin through both the backing and batting to hold the layers together. This will prevent the batting from scooting or bunching as the top is laid on it. I also make sure that I can see the backing all around. This way I know where the edge of the backing is located and I can easily tell if I lay the quilt outside of that area.

It's time for the quilt top! Again, I start in one corner, leaving a few inches of batting from the edge of the quilt top. I smooth out the top, working on one side at a time. If needed I can gently pull the quilt top up, down or sideways to get it in position. Because the backing and batting is tacked to the carpet, the quilt top will move without creating wrinkles or ripples in either the backing or batting. Using my hands, I slide across the quilt, feeling for any bubbles, wrinkles or tucks.

I dump my safety pins in the middle of the quilt and am ready to start pinning. Usually I start in the center, although I have started on one side and pinned to the opposite side. Either way works great! I like to use medium sized (#2) curved safety pins. They are large enough to handle easily, yet small enough not to make holes in the fabric as the pins are inserted. The curved edge is a lifesaver as you are inserting and pulling the pin back through the fabric to close it. I put my safety pins about 4 - 5" apart. If I am stitching in the ditch, I will be sure to place my pins about 3/4 - 1" away from the seam, so they will not catch on the walking foot as I am stitching.

Working from the center, I keep pinning, rotating on all four sides and continue to pin until I reach the edge of the quilt top. As I am pinning, I am keeping the quilt top smooth, carefully pulling and stretching a little if needed. I also look at my sashing and borders to be sure they are lying flat and straight. If a strip of sashing is pinned with a wave or curve, it will be quilted the same way. Be sure everything lays flat and straight. Now is the time to change it before you start quilting.

After I have pinned the entire quilt with safety pins, I will cut off any extra backing or batting that extends 3 - 5" beyond the quilt top. The quilt is heavy and bulky enough without the extra that I don't need. Starting on one side, I tightly roll the quilt toward the center. On the opposite side I will again roll tightly toward the center. The quilt is ready for stitching. I will start quilting in the center and continue to stitch toward the edges.

Pressing & Ironing: What's the Difference?

Is there a certain method to using an iron? What is the purpose of pressing and ironing? Pressing and ironing are two methods for using an iron that are often used interchangeably, but they have different definitions and purposes. The dictionary defines these two words as:

Ironing: The act or process of smoothing or pressing clothes, linens, etc., with a heated iron.

Pressing: To exert steady weight or force against; bear down on.

How does this apply to sewing and quilting? Ironing is moving the iron back and forth to smooth the fabric and take out wrinkles. The iron is not lifted from the fabric, rather it is rolling the iron over the top of the fabric. Ironing should be done cautiously; it can easily distort the fabric grain. Avoid ironing on lightweight fabrics where the fabric can easily be distorted. If the fabric is wet or sprayed with starch, the dampness weakens the threads which will easily stretch out of shape if ironed. Always avoid ironing wet or damp fabric. For piecing quilt pieces and seams, ironing can stretch the fabric out of shape, which makes sewing the patchwork pieces together harder to do. Use ironing for large sections of fabric like quilt backings and garments.

Pressing is an up and down action with the iron. The iron is set down on the fabric for a few seconds, lifted and moved to another location, then set down again. This action is continued until the area desired has been pressed. Pressing is less likely to distort the fabric grain because the iron is not plowing over the fabric. When applying spray starch to fabric, always press the fabric instead of ironing it. For piecing quilt pieces and seams, the point of the iron can be used to flip a seam to one side or flip the seam open. Then the iron is set down on the seam for a few seconds to press it into the desired place. Press fabrics so they do not become distorted or stretched out of shape.

Framing Quilt Blocks, Fabric & Embroidery Designs

Need some ideas to for home decorating this month? Consider framing your favorite quilt blocks, fabrics and embroidery designs in picture frames. It is simple, easy to do and provides a great way to display your quilting and embroidery talent!

Framing quilt blocks - I almost always have leftover blocks or fabric from quilts I have made. Take those leftover blocks or fabrics, insert them in a frame and display it along with your quilt. Choose a frame that compliments the colors in your block. By using a frame that is larger than your block, you can add borders around the block to fit the frame. Or border the block with a mat or double mat. Stagger two or more blocks in a larger frame or overlap the edges for an asymmetrical design.

After you have bordered the block to the size for the frame, you may want to starch the back of the fabric to give it a stiff finish. Then fuse wonderunder to the back. Peel off the paper backing and fuse the block to a piece of cardboard or cardstock cut to the same size that will fit in the frame. This will hold the block in place, preventing it from shifting in the frame. To preserve the fabric, you could use acid-free cardstock or cardboard.

Framing fabric or fabric panels - I have lots of fabric I bought just because I love it! Why not frame it and enjoy it? Florals, nature scenes, animal prints and other fun fabrics can be inserted into a picture frame. Pick out details from larger prints such as a large flower, a scenic cottage or a running horse. Pillow panels on fabric yardage or fabric panels can be cut out and framed very easily.

Starch the fabric if needed to add body to it. Cut the fabric to the size needed to fit in the frame. Fuse wonderunder to the back, peel off the paper backing and fuse to a piece of cardstock or cardboard. Insert into a coordinating picture frame. It's a quick and easy way to add decor to any room!

Framing embroidery designs - Machine embroidery looks great on quilts and garments, but is perfect to create professional looking frames to hang on your walls. Pick out your favorite embroidery designs and stitch them on flannel or felt. If the design is dense with over 10,000 stitches, you will want to use a cutaway stabilizer. It may be necessary to put a water soluble topping such as aqua film on the top of the fabric to keep the stitches from burying down in the pile of the flannel or felt. Instead of hooping the fabric, which could leave a hoop burn mark, hoop the stabilizer and spray it with spray adhesive. Stick the fabric on the hooped stabilizer and stitch.

Keeping the design centered, cut the fabric down to the size needed for the frame. If using flannel, fuse wonderunder to the fabric and then fuse to cardboard or cardstock to help hold its shape. When using felt, it is heavy enough that the wonderunder usually is not needed. The extra layer of cardboard with the felt may be too thick for the frame.

Give framed quilt blocks, fabric and machine embroidery designs a try! It is a quick and easy decor project that can brighten up any room. Use smaller frames for tabletops and dressers. Use larger picture frames and a combination of quilt blocks or embroidery designs to hang on the wall. Incorporate photos with fabric and embroidery into frames. Find fun frames and mats that coordinate with your fabric and designs. The possibilities are endless!!

Visit my online gallery for quilt blocks, fabric and embroidery designs I have framed and embellished!

Hearts & more hearts

This is my finished heart wall hanging project. I created several applique hearts I needed and instead of just tossing the blocks into a pile of unfinished projects, I created something with them. The stippling around the hearts really makes the hearts puff up, giving them a raised, 3D look to them.

The binding was fun and something new I tried. It is the piped binding method that Ricky Tims shows in his latest DVD, Grand Finale. It is very easy to cut and stitch the binding and apply it to the quilt. And the great thing for those of you who dislike handwork, is that the bindng is finished by stitching in the ditch instead of tacking on by hand. Since I love handwork, I don't mind stitching on the binding by hand, but it is quicker with this method by stitching in the ditch.

Wrinkle Free Quilt Backing

Starting with a smooth and sturdy quilt backing is the first step to achieve a quilt with the back free from tucks and puckers. What fabric is the best? Should it be prewashed? How can the backing gain more body after it has been washed? Read on to discover some tips for preparing your quilt backing!

What is the best fabric to use for quilt backing? Before choosing the fabric, consider what kind of quilting you will be doing on the quilt. Will it be machine or hand quilted? Will the stitching be dense and close together or will it be spread out? Will you be creating feathers, circles, squiggles or just stitching in the ditch?

Most of the time your fabric needs to be 100% cotton to match the remainder of your quilt. Avoid cotton/poly blends; they are much harder to quilt through by machine and especially by hand. If you are hand quilting, do not use a dense cotton fabric with a thread count of 200 or more. The threads are woven tighter together, which makes it much harder to work the needle in and out of the fabric. You will also want to avoid polished or specially treated cottons; the finished coating on the fabric makes more work for the needle as it is stitching.

To quilt by machine, any 100% cotton fabric is a good choice, even flannel. If you can find a coordinating fabric that is available in a 90" -120" width, this is the easiest. However, when using 45" wide fabric, you will just need to pieces the panels together to create a backing large enough for your quilt. To avoid extra bulk in the seams, be sure to trim off the selvedge and trim the seams to 1/4". The selvedge is treated so it will not ravel and is hard to quilt, plus you do not want the holes in the selvedge on a lighter fabric to show through on the backing.

Should you prewash the backing fabric? If you have prewashed the quilt top fabrics (you should to prevent fabric color runs and shrinkage), then, yes, you should also prewash the backing. Cotton fabrics tend to have a little more body and support before they are washed, which is an added plus for a quilt backing. But, if the backing shrinks when the top doesn't or the color in the backing runs to the quilt top fabrics, you will be very disappointed in your finished quilt. Even though prewashing tends to soften most fabrics, it is best to prewash the backing before attaching it to the quilt top. Some wide cotton backings have already been prewashed. If this is the case, it will be clearly marked on the bolt of fabric. If you are unsure, always prewash first.

How can you add body to the quilt backing after it has been washed and dried? The simple answer to this question is starch! Yes, starch is great for piecing bias and odd angled quilt pieces and eliminating puckers from the fabric caused by embroidery designs, but it is also perfect to help prevent tucks and puckers in the backing fabric. Adding starch is more time consuming, but worth the extra effort.

When I prewash my quilt backing, I add liquid starch to the water. I use the smallest amount of water I can in the washing machine to cover the fabric and pour in the liquid starch, letting it sit for 10 minutes or so. How much starch do I use? This depends on the stiffness of the cotton fabric I am using, but for most cottons, I use 1 part starch to 4 parts water (1 cup of starch to 4 cups of water). After it soaks in the starch water, I run the fabric through the rinse cycle and then throw it in the dryer. I always pull the fabric out of the washer and completely spread it out, so it is not tangled or wrapped around itself before sticking it in the dryer. This will save you tons of time pressing out wrinkles later.

I take the fabric out of the dryer while it is still slightly damp. Then I press it, as large of an area as I can fit on the ironing board at a time. The slight dampness in the fabric makes it easier to press out the creases and wrinkles. If the fabric does not have the body or stiffness that I like, I use my bottle of spray starch and starch the fabric as I am pressing. (See What is the Benefit of Starch? for more starching tips.) Large pieces of fabric, especially wide widths are harder to press. Just press it sections at a time and you will reach the end. For fabrics that you piece together, consider prewashing, starching, drying and pressing each panel before stitching the backing together. It will be easier to handle during the washing and pressing process. After each panel has been pressed, stitch them together and trim and press the seams.

Quilting your quilt should be fun, not a frustration from puckers and tucks in the fabric. Try to prevent these little frustrations before you even start sandwiching the pieces together by fabric selection, prewashing and starching the backing. Hand fun with your next quilt or wall hanging!

Hearts and more hearts

This is my current project I am working on. I needed to stitch some satin hearts to show and write directions for my method of satin stitching. Instead of just stitching 3 hearts on a block and then throwing it in a pile of unfinished blocks, I decided I would just do something with it. I had just a little bit of the purple floral and just a little of the purple tone on tone print, so I added an ivory swirling print for a border with scattered satin stitched hearts.

Hopefully I will be able to finish stippling the border today and then I will be ready for the binding. I am going to try the piped binding using the method that Ricky Tims uses. I saw that last week at our monthly Miss Kitty's Quilters meeting and loved the technique. It didn't seem that difficult to do and wouldn't take too long using the steps he described.